The True Cost

True-Cost5-620x330I have considered myself a relatively well-informed person, but there was a lot of information in “The True Cost” that surprised me. The documentary travels around the world to show the impact of the fashion industry on both human rights and the environment. It’s shocking and horrifying – far worse than you ever dreamed. In other words, the true cost of the clothes we wear is extreme.

We’ve all heard of “sweat shops” around the world, but filmmaker Andrew Morgan puts a face on those sweat shops by interviewing some of the workers. They talk about their lives and what has happened to them – in tears. He also interviews Stella McCartney, Livia Firth (Colin Firth’s wife) of Eco-Age, and Indian environmental activist Dr. Vandana Shiva.
True-Cost4-620x349 - CopyHere are just a few of the tidbits I learned from the film:

  • In the past two decades, clothing consumption has increased 500%. It’s called “fast fashion,” and it’s deadly – literally – in several different ways.
  • In the 1960s, the U.S. produced more than 90% of our clothing, but now we only produce 3%. Why? Because corporations go where the labor is cheapest and where there are no regulations to protect the workers. Why do governments allow it? Because if they didn’t, corporations would pull out and go someplace that does allow it.
  • The average garment worker in the Third World makes the equivalent of $2-$3 per day. And no, that is not a living wage in those countries.
  • Prior to the collapse of Rana Plaza in Bangladesh that killed more than a thousand garment workers, they had told management many times that there were cracks in the building.
  • The year after the tragedy at Rana Plaza, the fashion industry had its most profitable year of all time.
  • If workers dare to complain to management about their working conditions, they are often beaten.
  • The fashion industry is the most labor-dependent industry on earth.
  • Demand for cotton is causing farmers – both in the U.S. and elsewhere – to turn techniques with terrible health and ecological effects.
  • Due to the chemicals used in farming and in factories, children of workers are often born with horrific mental and physical defects. The workers themselves, both in the U.S. and abroad, often develop cancer and other illnesses.
  • In 16 years, more than 250,000 farmers in India committed suicide – one every 30 minutes. They often kill themselves by drinking the pesticides used on their crops.
  • The cheap clothing we buy is now overflowing our landfills. They do not biodegrade for 200 years.
  • Only about 10% of the clothes we donate to thrift shops are actually sold.
  • The fashion industry pollutes the planet more than any other industry except oil.
  • According to the documentary, the major clothing corporations (H&M and The Gap among them) don’t directly own the factories or employ the workers, so they can pretend to be blameless in all this. Yet, when legislation was introduced to make sure workers abroad are treated fairly, these corporations fought it.

These are just a handful of the things I learned from “The True Cost.” I recommend that you see this film if you care at all about the environment and global human rights, and if you don’t want to buy clothes without knowing the true cost of them. Opening worldwide on May 29th. Visit http://truecostmovie.com for more details.  Look for it in your city, and if it isn’t playing there, watch for it on VOD and DVD.

Source:  True Cost Movie, Reel Life With Jane

Dita’s Lingerie

As the Retro Wardrobe Queen launches her vintage inspired lingerie line in Harrods (it’s gorgeous, BTW) Dita Von Teese took time out of her schedule to talk about something she’s more than well versed about. Vintage fashion….

5806a41b440b3d9e3da388e1fe798856Q: What’s the most precious item of vintage in your wardrobe?
A: I have a suit by Christian Dior haute couture from the New Look era. It’s three pieces in tweed and is the kind of thing you see in the museums. with the red serial number stamped on the inside. It’s the real thing made in Paris and silk lined. The blouse has garters – it’s really incredible. It was expensive but I found out later I’d scored. Today it’s worth as much as a Mercedes.

Q: Do you have someone who alters your things?
A: I have one great tailor who can do anything. She’s great. I would really recommend finding someone for yourself if you are serious about vintage because. For almost twenty -five years, I used to go to any old tailor and there are so many things that have been ruined by not being altered properly. The lady I now use is very conscientious about keeping the style right and making some allowance for when your size fluctuates, and you can let it back out.

Q: What’s the best way to work out if something’s good quality?
A: A lot of my vintage dresses from the 40s and 50s are homemade. But with vintage clothes you need to be prepared to put in the maintenance. I’m constantly having things fixed because they’re so old: threads break, zips buckle. There’s upkeep involved for sure and you have to be prepared to restore things to keep the quality at a premium.

Q: Do you think there’s anything that’s better as vintage than modern.
A: I think the ready-to-wear clothes were more glamorous back then, for sure, and the fabrics were so much nicer. Before the era of stretch they had these beautiful fabrics like grosgrain satin and silk fabrics and beautiful prints – quality was much better than it is now.

Q: How do you look after and wash vintage items?
A: I have a really good dry-cleaner. Living in Hollywood, I have access to people that really know how to handle delicate things because of the movie industry. Back then, women used to wear slips or dress guards under their clothes so they didn’t have to clean them so often. I think this makes sense.

Q: Do you ever go into charity shops or just the top vintage shops these days?
A: My favourite event for shopping is twice a year in LA. It’s the Vintage Clothing Expo. The dealers from all over the country come to sell and it really is the best vintage shopping experience in the world, allunder one roof. It’s fantastic, and the prices are good. I don’t go to charity shops anymore because those people [at Vintage Expo] have already been there to clean those things out.

Q: Do you still get a buzz out of finding a great item?
A: I still love the thrill of the hunt. The reason I started dressing in vintage in the first place was because I couldn’t afford designer clothes so I started to find my own way to get like the look that I would see in fashion magazines and create that look for less. But I still like getting a deal. I get excited about scoring.

A: How do you do vintage on holiday?
Q: I like 50s summer dresses in crisp cotton dress or a skirt paired with a simple T-shirt. There’s a designer called Rachel Palley, who makes these delicious long Grecian style dresses who I love, so between the 50s dresses and the Rachel Palley dresses, that’s my holiday look, mixed in with vintage hats and bags.

A: What would you never buy vintage?
Q: I don’t buy vintage shoes anymore because I’ve ruined so many pairs that were so beautiful; I think they should be left alone. I don’t dress head to toe vintage anymore like I used to. I had a period in my life where I dressed head to toe vintage everything. I would have the hat, the gloves, the shoes, the stockings, the lingerie… even the car was vintage. I was really living in that period. Now I love to mix it up. My style has definitely evolved.

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Q: Have you ever worn vintage underwear before?
A: Yes, I have a big collection of it. I first started collecting vintage lingerie when I was about 17-years-old. I started collecting vintage slips and bras, mostly because I was trying to get the look of Jean Paul Gaultier. I always loved the bullet bras that he was doing in the early years so I would buy vintage lingerie to get that look and wear lingerie as outerwear because I didn’t have money to spend on designers. I definitely wore and collected a lot of vintage lingerie and I still do, mostly because I just love it but I don’t really wear it anymore – mostly I use it for reference.

Q: How has underwear changed?
A: It’s very different. I love some of the details [ of the old stuff] like I love button clasps instead of hooks and I love all the boning. In the 1930’s and ‘40’s lingerie was all lined in silk velvet; it’s so nice to have that against your skin. I use velvet in a lot of the straps in my current collection.

Q: You talked about underwear as outerwear. If somebody is a complete novice at doing that, what would you recommend?
A: Bustiers and bras with tuxedo jackets is a great look. Or under something sheer, like a sheer blouse, is a nice way to hint at underwear. Right now I’m wearing a Ulyana Shervinko [floral chiffon] dress with my Maestro bra [which you can see hints of.] With lingerie, I think there’s something about certain shapes that begs to be seen. For me, showing a little peek of beautiful lingerie underneath clothes is a little touch of femininity. It’s symbolic of womanhood and an example of what it means to be a lady.

d52458883234badb76832b3fa66e36beQ: I guess you were never a tomboy.
A: Never! When people said your child years are the best, that wasn’t the case for me. I could not wait to be a grown woman who could choose her own clothes instead of having them chosen for me. I was fascinated with lingerie from a very young age and used to go into my mother’s drawer and steal things and try them on. I think I really associate lingerie with something that we do that enhances our femininity and creates everyday moments of glamour and beauty. I don’t really think of it as something to seduce with. I don’t have my lingerie for a man even though I know the power of it.

Q: How would you recommend somebody introducing vintage subtly into their wardrobe?
A: I don’t recommend you go full on vintage but I think there are little classic hallmarks that look very modern. Red lipstick is one of those. It still looks very relevant and chic yet is very much of that time.

Q: Would you ever leave the house without a red lip?
A: I think I last left the house without a red lip in an emergency, taking my cat to the vets in the middle of the night. I put it on everyday because I’m just trying to maintain a degree of elegance. It’s about keeping decorum, about good manners.

Q: Last question, we can’t imagine you in tracksuit bottoms…
A: Ha! Me neither.

Source: Style UK

Earth Day Fashion

Happy Earth Day!  In the spirit of Momma Earth, today us Filthy gals will be giving some love to three, eco-friendly fashion lines that you need to check out.
itwasalladream19_copy_copyDelikate Rayne
Ethical. Sustainable. Luxurious. What more could you ask of  this delicate cruelty-free line?  Their crisp designs feature cruelty-free, vegan textiles to create a truly inspiring collection.  In fact, we’d be hard pressed to find styles more refined than these.

298A1639Bon George
Do you love vintage as much as us?  If so, this eco-conscious gem is not to be missed. The folks at Bon George are committed to delivering classic designs constructed out of salvaged vintage fabrics. Plus, their line is positively drop-dead gorgeous.
3Loomstate
High quality and high eco-friendly standards intersect at this comfy-cozy brand. The sporty line made a commitment to only use organic cotton and sustainable practices, and they intend to keep that pact.

For many more eco-friendly fashion lines, check out our Earth Day source – EOnline.  Did we miss any of your favorite eco-friendly duds?  If so, let us know in the comments below.  Have a great Earth Day!  Tread lightly and be kind.  Xo.

Recycled & Re-Spun

Parachute

Rain Jacket by Worn Again – Constructed from recycled fibers and re-spun yarns

Millions of tons of material are made each year but the truth is that people are throwing away clothes. Trends change rapidly and valuable material is tossed into landfills.  A few companies are working to reverse this wasteful pattern.  Kering (owners of Puma) and H&M recently announced they will be working with the textile up-cycling company Worn Again. The goal is to meet the growing demand for cotton and polyester production worldwide by 
recycling garments.

Parachute2jacket

Rain Jacket by Worn Again – Constructed from recycled fibers and re-spun yarns

Worn Again separates and extracts the materials from used clothing so that it can be re-spun into new yarns.  This conversion back to yarn, the basic twisted fibers present in all fabrics, solves the problem of separating the materials of blended fiber clothes and removing dyes from polyester 
and cellulose.

BagPARA

Messenger Bag by Worn Again

In other words, a T-shirt’s previously linear lifespan can now become circular. What was once worn, thrown away and left in landfills is now seen as reusable, proving fashion’s ability to become sustainable. Anna Gedda, the head of sustainability at H&M, said she believes this will change the way fashion is created and massively reduce the need for extracting virgin resources from our planet.

bagpara2

Messenger Bag by Worn Again

Worn Again’s technology is still in development and the two companies only plan to adopt the technology once it is deemed commercially viable – it is about the bottom-line after all. Just announcing the technology and showing its intentions has sparked conversation about textile waste. Even if it cannot become commercially viable within the H&M or Kering business models, other companies are ready to introduce textile recycling technology.

Sources:  The Crimson White, Worn Again